6255 Billet Rod for Predator 3.707" X 1.191" X .490"

The ARC Racing billet "Long" rod for the Predator Hemi and Non Hemi 212cc engines. This rod measures 3.707" center to center for a 1.188" crank pin with .490" wrist pin and is designed to be used with aftermarket high-performance pistons. For stock stroke crank applications. The longer rod ratio generated with this combination will produce horsepower in the mid to high rpm range due to increased dwell and decreased  side loading of piston. Bearings and custom designed high tensile strength ARP rod bolts are included.

 *** Piston will require machining in this application. Approximately .075"-.095" will need to be remove from the piston dome depending on the block deck height. ***

 ***Will not work with Wiseco 3 ring pistons***

 All of our rods are CNC machined from aircraft grade 7075 T-651 aluminum.  Our OHV rods are designed to utilize the higher compression ratios and high RPMs of racing OHV engines. 

 Key Features Include:

• Oil groove in the crank bore that is fed through a channel in the integrated forced oil dipper arm.
• Oil groove in the wrist pin bore that provides a reservoir of lubricant to the wrist pin as well as reinforced wrist pin bosses on the rod.

Rod bolt torque: 170 in/lbs lubricated

***Will not fit the Honda GX200 or Clone 196cc crank***

 Installation Instructions:

To install your ARC rod you will need a 12 point 1/4" socket and a QUALITY inch pound torque wrench. You will need an outside micrometer, dial bore gauge or plasti gauge, and motor oil.

 Measure the crank pin diameter with the outside mic, it should measure 1.188-1.1875". Measure in several spots to insure roundness. If larger than 1.188", crank journal should be polished down to spec. If journal is out of round more than .0005" it probably should be replaced. The crank pin finish should be smooth to the touch.

 When disassembling the rod notice on the side of the rod with the part number there are two dots next to the separation point of the beam and cap (some older rods don't have these). These dots help to re-orientate the cap and beam when assembled. The side of the rod with the part number engraved will always face the side cover, and all oiling holes in the rod will face the cam. 

 Make sure the bearing and rod serrations are clean. Install the bearings by lining up the tangs on the bearing with the cut outs on the rod. Lubricate the rod bolt threads with straight motor oil and hand tighten the bolts. Using the torque wrench and 12 point 1/4" socket tighten the bolts to 60" Inch/lbs. Alternate each side to increase the torque by 20" lbs at a time until you reach 150" Inch/lbs. This helps seat the rod bearing especially on a new rod. Measure the bore with your dial bore gauge opposite the parting lines. If using plasti gauge you will have to install the rod on the crank and use in accordance the plasti gauge instructions.

 The rod bore should measure 1.191 +/.0005". With plasti gauge you are looking for about .003" total oil clearance. From .0025-.0035" clearance is acceptable. 

 Once clearance is set apply motor oil to rod bolts, bearings, crank journal, and wrist pin. Then install.

 Do Not use sticky automotive assembly lube, always use the oil you plan to run in the engine as assembly lube for all internal parts.  

 Final rod bolt torque is 170"Inch/lbs.

 Improperly torqueing rod bolts is one of the most common causes of rod failure.